Sonoma-Cutrer 2012 Russian River Ranches Chardonnay
Recently I commented on Sonoma-Cutrer 2010 Russian River Pinot Noir (see March 7, 2014 post) and described that I first became acquainted with Sonoma-Cutrer during a Sonoma wine tasting event in the 80’s and met Brice Cutrer Jones. When I tasted his Chardonnay, in a word, outstanding, one of the best I have tasted, but that was a while ago. The Sonoma-Cutrer Russian River Ranches Chardonnay was my “go-to” Chardonnay until about the time Brice Cutrer Jones was no longer associated with the winery. In 1999, Brown-Forman, the Kentucky-based drinks giant acquired Sonoma-Cutrer, and 2 years later fired Brice Cutrer Jones. Since Brice’s departure, the Chardonnay was good, but not “outstanding”. I have tried several vintages throughout the early 2000’s and was not impressed and the style changed a bit from a richer Chardonnay with layered flavors to more of a single dimension wine lacking depth and complexity. For a time Brown-Forman put on a screw top and recently went back to cork (not for all of their offerings). Although I have tried and commented on premium “screw top” wine, there is something magical about pulling out a cork when serving wine. Try ordering a screw top wine in a fine restaurant, it’s almost comical when the waiter opens the wine and really doesn’t know what to do.
In 1999, Brice Cutrer Jones purchased the Hallberg’s apple orchard, a 115-acre parcel in the heart of Russian River Valley, and subsequently founded Emeritus Vineyards producing only Pinot Noir. Part of his Pinot Noir Harvest is only sold to restaurants. I hope to get my hands on a bottle of Emeritus Pinot Noir soon and comment about it….can’t wait.
Back to today’s topic, Sonoma-Cutrer 2012 Russian River Ranches Chardonnay. Opening a bottle, I noticed a very pale yellow color and notes of fragrant floral aromas. Tasting the wine I found very light apple and pear flavors, citrus and some slight oak, although I was expecting more intensity in the combination of flavors. The 2012 vintage is better than I have tasted in a while, however I believe they have to go a little more to win my “go to” Chardonnay status again. I noticed that they are producing a “Late Harvest Chardonnay”, and I will try and get my hands on a bottle and comment….should be interesting. You should also visit the Sonoma-Cutrer website as they have a bunch of interesting recipes you can download and try. The Turkey Piccata and Marinated Salmon were particularly good. They have a recipe for “Avocado Fries” that sounds interesting that I look forward to trying soon. You can pick up a bottle of the 2012 Russian River Ranches for about $22, so give it a try and let’s see how this wine develops with future vintages.
Cheers!